A View of Transition and Life Beyond

As of today, I have been living in Oguaa, a small village of perhaps three to four hundred people, for 40 days—and though they have not been without challenges, these 40 days have been remarkably joyful. So many things here are so different from my past experiences (both in the US and in Accra), but I think the most noteworthy is the fact that I have stopped noticing many of them. Things that once may have surprised or shocked me are normal, and one-time nuisances have come to be just what I need to brighten my days. Life in Oguaa is good.

I won't give you an extensive recounting of our journey from Accra to Oguaa via Kumasi, Ghana's second largest city and the nearest place (at about 2 hours away) where I can find reliable internet access. Each month one of the five of us Bridge Year students writes an update from the field and submits it to Princeton for publication on their website, and so when my opportunity to write the update came in January, I chose to write about our transition. You can find my report here (and roam the site to find the archived updates written by Nick, Kathleen, Cole, and Aria) if you want to fill in some of the gap between my last blog post and the previous ones.

But for the most part, as I alluded to, the transition is over, replaced by living. No longer do the not-uncommon power outages seem terribly inconvenient; as long as my phone has enough battery to last until the power comes back on in a few hours, I have come to enjoy the respite from the constant background din of peoples' radios that a “lights off” brings. The surprisingly terrifying grunts and bays of the fattened ram who is tied up nearby are now more apt to make me shake my head as I bid him goodnight than to make the hair on the back of my neck bolt upright. Many times a day when a child stares after me as I pass, singing out, “Oboruni kכkכ, maakye!” (“White person/foreigner, good morning!”) at any time of the day, I answer quickly with a little dance and a sing-song call—“Yaa, fikyiri gon-gon!” (the expected gibberish response)—rather than bewilderment at why kids are wishing me good morning at 4:00 in the afternoon. All of this is just part of how I live.

In short, the details of how I live are thus: I stay in a house which is basically one row or bank of rooms (a toilet room, bathing room, kitchen, and chicken coop) opposite a small, empty, cement “courtyard” from another bank of rooms, which shaped like a block-lettered “C”. Basically, my house is a square, but one side of the square is not connected to the others, and in the middle of the square is an open area which is flat and cemented. Each of the rooms has door that opens onto this “courtyard.” My house is not occupied by a single family; rather, there is the elder of the house, who is called “כpanin” (“Elder”), an old woman and her two young granddaughters (Sekina and Malia), who have become the equivalent of my host family under these odd living circumstances, and two teachers (Owusu and Akwasi Edward) in their early twenties.

Because I don't quite live with a host family (I am more like the other two teachers, who are renting the rooms, than an exchange student living with and learning from a family as a temporary member), I spend a lot of my time with Aria, Nick, Kathleen, and Cole at our Bridge Year headquarters, located in the village chief's house. Like me, Cole and Kathleen stay in houses in the village, while Aria and Nick have rooms in the chief's house, which is a compound similar to mine. However, when we are not sleeping or spending time in our rooms or with the other residents of our houses, we tend to gather at Nana's place, as we know headquarters. Whether cooking our communal meals, doing the dishes, or just hanging out, simply spending time together has helped me to develop friendships that I really value with each of the other four students. To be honest, it has been a struggle at times to adjust to the new living circumstances after my wonderful host family in Accra, and I sometimes feel that I should spend more time at my house than Nana's place, but I am learning to divide my time well and look forward to continuing spending time with the best friends I have in Ghana.

In terms of work, I am teaching at a middle school called Seniagya Methodist Junior High School, located in a village about a ten minute walk from Oguaa. In the school—a fairly new building comprised of three classrooms and an office—there are three “forms” equivalent to 6th, 7th, and 8th grades with about 25 students in each form. Initially I expected that I would be assisting teachers and tutoring and generally trying to be helpful, but I am in fact the form 1 (6th grade) math teacher. This means that if you need any help calculating a fraction's lowest terms or talking about the relationship between a plane shape like a circle and the net of a solid such as a cylinder, I am the person to come to, particularly if you would like a faltering explanation in Twi! I teach my 25 students, who range in age from 12 to 19, four times a week for about 70 minutes if the school is running on schedule (or about 60 minutes if it is a typical day) using a mix of a little English and as much Twi as I can muster. No class ever goes quite as expected according to the lesson plans I write, but I am proud to say that my students know the difference between a ray and a line, and I am pretty confident that I know all their names. Never could I have guessed how simply rewarding and mind-blowingly frustrating teaching can be and is—but my name is now Madam.

To distill these details, this life is unlike anything I have experienced before, including life in Accra—but as I stared in wonder at the magnificent, sizzling purple thunder tearing through the resolute black sky two nights ago, I realized I don't want to live any other life right now.