Saturday, January 30, 2010

Oguaa in the morning

I wake up in the morning only after much snooze button-fumbling within the confines of my mosquito net: Why is it only 5:30? Though it takes a burst of pure willpower, eventually I work up the energy to switch off my alarm, sit up, unzip my net, and slip through the opening, usually without falling onto the floor. As my bare feet scuffle across the smooth cement floor, I slip on my trusty Old Navy flip flops to avoid any of the friendly but intimidating spiders that may have ventured off the wall and onto the floor before grabbing my two yards of green and brown printed cloth, which I use to wrap around me in some kind of toga-esque style.

I unlock the door, take a few sheets of toilet paper for good measure, and shuffle across the courtyard of my compound to the bathroom. The small cement room contains a broom made from palm fronds, an empty plastic oil container, and a plastic seat embedded in the top of a hollow cement column--a welcoming sight. Exiting the bathroom, I shuffle back into my room by the light of a luminous moon and the bare flourescent lightbulb protruding from the exterior wall. I collect my towel, shampoo, bathing sponge (called "sapo," which is a rectangular piece of netting about 6 inches by 24 inches used to scrub oneself while bathing--the Ghanaian loofah), and tiny blue plastic pail before again venturing across the courtyard. A quick glance around helps me identify the two bathing buckets: one to dip into the huge barrel of water, and another to hold the water fetched with the first bucket. One, two, three times I submerge the smaller of the two buckets in the barrel, and one, two, three times the water splashes from one bucket into the other.

As I enter the stark bathing room, I hang my towel and cloth over the frail wooden door, and steel myself: the water scooped by the little pail will be cold, and the morning is not particularly warm either. Begin with the feet, because they require the most attention and scrubbing to remove the earthy-fine dust, and then proceed to pour a little water onto my chest to reduce the shock of drenching my hair in the morning chill. Scrub a little, pour on some water, and scrub some more. The bucket bath is neither complicated nor pretentious, but no matter the cold that creeps into my fingertips: this is the perfect beginning.

I greet my eight-year-old host sister, Sekina, as I notice her sitting on the cement step in a long, dusty, elegant skirt: "Sekina, maakye." "Yaa, ena," she replies, and we exchange a smile before I disappear into my room. Inside, the clothes from which I pick a simple outfit for the day are stuffed into an extra duffel bag I had brought along, for there is no need for the luxury of a dresser in my bare room; the bed stands independent and alone against shockingly vibrant blue walls.

So I am clothed, and I wriggle my feet into my trusty sandals before doing my mental survey of the morning. Remembering, I retreive my industrial-sized Walgreen's pharmacy bottle and select a particularly delicious-looking malarone (malaria prophylaxis) pill and swallow it with the aid of lukewarm water from a sachet. Now the morning is complete. I gather the essentials for a day of teaching 6th grade math--a black pen for writing lesson plans, a red pen for correcting exercises, a copy of the slim Pupil's Textbook for Mathematics, the Mathematics Syllabus for Junior High School, my flimsy lesson plan book, and a Ghc1 note in case some of the kids need to buy lunch--and a few necessities for life--sunscreen, some tissue, my cell phone. I open the door, exit, and turn the key firmly in the lock.

"Nana, mepaakyew, mereko sukuu. Onyame adom, yebehyia awia!"
Grandma, please, I am going to school. By God's grace, we shall meet this afternoon!

3 comments:

  1. Jessica - Your gift for writing is amazing. I felt like I was a fly on the wall, there with you as you described your morning. Keep posting, your adventures are unbelievably great! Can't wait to read the book.

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  2. Hello dear Jessica, that is about what we imagined your morning to be like -- but never with so much detail. Too bad your bucket bath water is cold and your sachet is warm! We have a fire in the fireplace tonight, eating some popcorn...grateful we dont have to take a bucket bath outside in the morning! Love you much, the Mom and the Dad

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  3. Jessica!

    You have your own room?? Only one little sister--or are there more in the family? I can't wait for the pictures (though you do a great job of painting one for us with words) and for the details of your amazing experience. I know you aren't a coffee drinker, but wouldn't a hot cup of java help warm you for the cold bucket shower? We do appreciate your wonderful blog.
    Peace, Bev

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